We have never really detoured on our usual route through the middle of Louisiana, but Saturday we pulled off unexpectedly to look at the Adai Cultural Center.
I find more and more as an adult that things don’t really happen to me anymore. I have to happen to them. However, when we take a byway or detour, things happen to us. We have ended up touring a Masonic lodge with the Grand Master, walking amid decades-old weeds growing through the cracks of abandoned Route 66, interrupting a strange ceremony in what appeared to be a public book shop.
This byway I will actually not ever forget.
We stopped first at St. Anne’s Catholic Church.
Then we walked among the old graves. You know me, I love an old cemetery, especially when there’s sun-bleached silk roses on the graves.
This was not an above-ground cemetery, though some of the graves had a cement covering.

We remarked on the beautiful, unusual names, particularly “Marsalena” and “Bustamento.”
After this we visited the Adai Cultural Center. It was completely empty, but we both had to use the restroom and made a run for it. When we emerged the gift shop was suddenly populated. We talked a little bit with the curator about the museum, and another lady was very talkative with us. A man came out of the museum part with a camcorder, who was no other than the Chief of the Adai nation. I heard the curator address him as such and so looked to her once he and his Queen were gone, and she explained that he was in fact their tribal leader.
I must admit, I felt very lucky, and the state and life that Native Americans lead today was impressed on me as I visited the center and looked at the things the Adai artisans make today.
Many of the names mentioned in the exhibits were the same as those on the cemetery graves, and the short video we watched mentioned St. Anne’s Church as an establishment which had converted many Indians to Catholicism.
The experience impressed some sadness on us both, but mine came later in the day when we had dinner. I felt sickened and sorry for everything, even for eating in the Cracker Barrel, though I can scarcely say why.
In my adult life I have felt very emotional every time I have seen any clips of Native American dancing on television. I don’t want to undermine the fact that I am a big sap, for it is one of those things, like “Bed of Roses” or Sarah Brightman’s “Siren,” that causes me to cry immediately, sort of like watching a clip from The Nutcracker will cause me to fall asleep immediately.
I despise dancing actually and never, ever do it unless I am alone, because for me a dance is like a journal entry, only relevant when it is personal and genuine. I have only ever known dancing to be for purposes completely unimportant, such as social posturing, competing or acquiring a mate, however temporarily. I have never seen beauty in a dance before, so that when I see a Native American dance, I am overwhelmed.
Native American dances are not to show off or acquire anything. They are religious, personal and moving. I would dearly love to see one in my adult life in person. They have them quite a lot at the Adai Cultural Center, but we came at a time when nothing like that was going on.
I was very impressed with the spiritual similarities to Buddhism and Zen, and when I considered those pure principles against the brutalities of white people I was sickened. I know that however many millenia since the Native Americans traveled from the East to populate America their culture is related to those principles which I have been studying lately. I was even more impressed with how different was the Native American philosophy from the European and how little defense they had against the search-and-destroy tactics the Europeans employed.
I asked my husband if he thought one day there would be no more Native Americans. He said, of course there wouldn’t be. He is so good about giving it to me straight. I said, of course not genetically, because bloodlines are in constant flux and there is no reason to ever keep a bloodline “pure.” I wondered if there would be no Native American culture some day. He said he thought some of it would always stay around. Well, there doesn’t seem to be any reason that there will ever be more of it than there is now.
To think that there is something from which we could learn, that is dying away, though these individuals carry on however confidently, while the majority of us eat at the Cracker Barrel Country Store and watch So You Think You Can Dance? I am still not over it.
Labels: towns